Macedonia has no sea, but it does have the gigantic and beautiful Lake Ohrid, and they have cared for it well. Situated in the south-western corner close to the Albania border it is a place which is packed full of amazing historical sites, opportunities to relax and take in the lake as well as party until the early morning. The problem with visiting here is that there are simultaneously too many things to do and too many reasons not to do anything at all but just sit, relax and take in the wonderful scenery.

It can be busy during the height of summer as thousands of Macedonians leave the cities and travel up to the lake in search of some fresh air and cool breezes. Its also not uncommon to see Macedonia’s army, taking some time off and relaxing by the side of the lake or playing volleyball during this time of the year either, so if you arrive in peak season it is not a quiet mountain paradise, but a bustling tourist town which you will have to walk a little from to escape the crowds. As well as the lake, there is the town itself and many nearby monasteries and sights of natural beauty.

Ohrid Town

By far the biggest town in the region Ohrid has been home to people since ancient times, as the hill which overlooks the bay offers protection from attack. From the Byzantine era onwards the area has been one of monasticism and learning, something which is reflected in the buildings to be found in the area today. The old town itself is a wonderfully cramped place, as attempts to build within the city walls lead to some very creative housing designs.

If you manage to drag yourself to the top of the hill then you can enter Tsar Samoil's fortress, a sight which you will have no doubt seen up at fro the town below. It is more impressive from the outside than from within as there is not much there, the wonderful views of the town and the lake however are more than worth the walk up the hill.

You might then want to wind back down the hill, possibly though some of the beautiful pine forests until you meet one of the over 40 churches which exist within the town. These include the former cathedral of Sveta Sofia, which apart form the obvious architectural and religious significance also has some wonderfully preserved frescos, something which the Sveti Kliment Bogorodica Perivlepta church can also boast. The soft coloured stone in which most of these are built gives the feeling of being very east, and the ongoing archaeological digs which are taking place in the town further add to the feeling of exploration.

For some modern, but nevertheless beautiful sight seeing you might want to try the large church of Sv Kliment i Pantelejmon, which although set amidst further exploratory digs is actually a very modern building dating from 2002. It is stunning none-the-less and situated on the edge of a cliff with wonderful views of the lake below. The New Town is the perfect place for a beer or a meal as it is much cheaper and livelier than the old part of the town. This is also the spot for nightlife, swimming and taking boat rides.

Ohrid Lake

The reason for the town, and most probably for your visit, is undoubtedly the lake. There is a ban on building to close to the water’s edge to preserve the serenity and the green algae which is in the lake is left there deliberately so as not to upset the local eco-system. In summer there are long distance swimming competitions, parties and festivals based around the lake. The grassy shores also make it a lovely place because you don’t get the sandy-feet dilemma upon leaving.

Around Ohrid

Struga

It’s only about thirty minutes to Struga, which is also extremely popular with local tourists, especially from Macedonia which is within spitting distance of the town. Although it doesn’t have any of the historical points of interest which can be found in Ohrid, it is still a charming little town with a lively nightclub scene and busy beach. The Crni Drim River leading off the lake is also extremely popular for swimming, as well as for aerial acrobatics as hordes of young boys attempt to outdo each other flipping off the bridges into the water below.

You might also want to visit the beautiful House of Culture Park, which features trees planted by poets from all over the world. The park is an off-shoot of the annual poetry festival which is held in the town. And if you can pull yourself away from the park, cafes or beach then after a short walk to villages of Kališta and Radožda, you can find a number of cave churches which are built into the rock.

Gorna Belica and Vevčani

Situated North West of Struga is Gorna Belica a small settlement with amazing views of the mountains on one side and the lake on the other. This beautiful and traditional village has signed paths leading you on trails though the forests which make for a wonderful afternoon activity. However make sure that you don’t accidentally walk into the Republic of Vevčani. Don’t worry if you haven’t heard of this smallest of Balkan republics as not many other people have either. The village declared itself independent in 1991 and appears to be a successful if rather small republic.

Sveti Naum

The Sveti Naum monastery sits atop a commanding promontory south of Struga and is well worth a visit. There is a small and rather beautiful little church, but some of the buildings have been taken over by a hotel complex and so there is slightly modern feel to the place. There is also a small lake on which you can take a boat ride and many souvenir shops where you can pick up a reminder of the place.

Galičica National Park

The national park takes its name from the massive mountains which loom down on Ohrid and are a good place or a hike. There are very some good cycle routes through the park as well, which are pretty well signed. The Galičica range stretches into Albania and there is much unspoilt countryside for you to explore. Another good way to see the mountains is to take a trip from the border down to Albania, if you dare to trust the crazy driving of the 4x4 bus-cum-taxis. But if you want to be alone in nature then the best thing is to walk into the hills as it’s very unlikely that you’ll meet anyone during your walks.